https://nova.newcastle.edu.au/vital/access/ /manager/Index en-au 5 Spatial variations in wave transformation and sediment entrainment on a coral reef sand apron https://nova.newcastle.edu.au/vital/access/ /manager/Repository/uon:28005 pd) is introduced that combines the cross-reef distance from the reef crest (Xd) and the temporally specific along-reef distance from the first point of wave breaking on the reef rim (Xp, where Xpd= Xd+ Xp). Xpd is shown to accurately describe the changes in wave height and sediment entrainment if deep water significant wave height, wave direction, and depth over the reef flat are known. The results in this study shows that wave conditions, sediment entrainment, and longer term trends in sediment characteristics can be predicted in back-reef environments from a few simple geomorphic inputs.]]> Tue 11 Oct 2022 09:02:30 AEDT ]]> A novel machine learning algorithm for tracking remotely sensed waves in the surf zone https://nova.newcastle.edu.au/vital/access/ /manager/Repository/uon:36265 Fri 10 Mar 2023 14:51:22 AEDT ]]>